It is the first time in four years Morgenstern's has undergone this kind of shift. Many of the ice creams we have come to know, the Vanilla Bourbon and the Chocolate Oat, the Black Licorice and Burnt Sage, are gone. rtsugar writes
Plenty of options! Photo: Christian Rodriguez Morgenstern’s has changed its menu. It is the first time in four years the shop has undergone this kind of shift. Many — most! — of the ice creams we have come to know, the Vanilla Bourbon and the Chocolate Oat, the Black Licorice and Burnt Sage, are gone.
“Toned back” is in the eye of the beholder: 40 new flavors is a lot of ice cream. Transitions can be difficult. Allow Grub to help guide you through the changing of the guard.Morgenstern has wanted to do a bubble-gum-flavored ice cream for years, but held off until now because he “didn’t feel like it was the time.” Of course, once he decided to take the plunge, he went all in: Morgenstern starts with an intense bubble-gum-flavored base, then studs it with working gumballs.
This is a strawberry ice cream for discerning palates, the thinking person’s strawberry ice cream, with olive oil and fruit — a classic combination — evoking both “Italy” and “summer.” The olive-oil custard base here is hyperluxe and super-smooth, cut with big bright gobs of homemade jam.The secret here is that Morgenstern dehydrates the strawberries before adding them to the ice-cream base, where they reabsorb some moisture, becoming “almost chewy.
This is not a substitute for Morgenstern’s Bourbon Vanilla, which has been cut from the menu despite being of the shop’s most popular flavors of all time, but it is “close enough that people aren’t going to get too upset about it,” Morgenstsern says. Buttered rum would be the more traditional liquor, but bourbon “marries with the dairy better.” A dignified flavor, I think.
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