If I Lived in Toronto, Every Dinner Date Would Be at Dreyfus

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If I Lived in Toronto, Every Dinner Date Would Be at Dreyfus
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Highly Recommend: This charming wine bar for a date in Toronto.

, Dreyfus is an unquestionably charming, unquestionably diminutive French-ish bistro tucked inside a brick row house. The cozy space is imbued with Québécois flair, from the handwritten French menu to the kitchen’s unrestrained use of butter.

After perching at the bar and snagging a bottle of wine from the all-natural lineup, my partner and I happily ordered half the menu. It was summer, so we were especially spoiled: heirloom tomatoes on aioli-smeared challah toast, fried anchovies tossed with shishito peppers, and impossibly crisp—a dangerous mix of mashed potatoes and choux pastry, deep-fried and served with sour cream and trout roe. It was too much. It was perfect.

By the time 10 p.m. rolled around, I was completely sold on Toronto. And once I returned south of the border, I kept thinking about that meal. Canadian friends warn me that it’s easiest to love Toronto in the heat of summer, but I can’t help but imagine waiting out a winter storm at Dreyfus’s moodily lit bar. What could be more romantic than getting snowed in with a few plates of lobster salad and

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