If you like carbonara, you’ll love pasta alla Gricia, a Roman trattoria standby. Get the katieparla recipe:
byKatie Parla| PUBLISHED Sep 27, 2022 1:32 PMRecipes by CourseRecipes by CuisineRecipes by IngredientShareWelcome to Parla’s Pastas, a bi-weekly column by the Rome-based, New York Times best-selling cookbook author Katie Parla. Here you’ll find traditional and inspired recipes from Italy’s 20 regions. Get ready for a carb-driven journey through the trattorias of Rome, the kitchens of Sicily , rural Campania, and beyond.
Roman cooks claim that gricia originated in northern Lazio, deep in the Apennine mountains. Shepherds introduced city-dwellers to the dish over a century ago, and it stuck. Indeed, it would go on to inspire Rome’s other iconic pastas: Spiked with tomato sauce, it became amatriciana. Enriched with egg, it birthed carbonara. But despite the worldwide renown of these later creations, gricia never got its due—even if it’s still a pillar of the Roman trattoria.
When I have friends in town, I take them to Armando al Pantheon , where chef Claudio Gargioli softens the guanciale with a splash of white wine. The porky strips get caught in the strands as you twirl. Note: If you fancy crisp guanciale, cook it over medium heat and transfer it to a plate, leaving the fat in the pan, while you prepare the dish. Then add the crisp guanciale with the pasta before plating. If possible, seek out guanciale with a simple black pepper and salt cure, rather than one flavored with fennel, garlic, or chile. The dish is all about the pure flavor of black pepper.
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