The Imitation of Christ spring 2023 collection is here. See every look:
At Imitation of Christ art, performance, politics, social commentary, have always been as—or more—important than clothes which, aside from a deadstock cotton line that can go into production, have always been one-offs. I’ve said it before, but it bears repeating that IOC disrupted the fashion system in ways others are just catching up to or mimicking today.
As much as Subkoff, who self-funds the brand, wants you to buy and wear IOC, she also wants you to buy into its values. “The moral compass of the brand is clear,” she said during a showroom appointment, “having it be so much about anti-consumerism and upcycling.”, presented soon after the Texas abortion ban had been ratified, a model in a Victorian wedding dress spray painted a red line diagonally across her belly. Subkoff described the gesture as a “peaceful protest and a political act.
Subkoff had no plans to show at New York Fashion Week until she was invited to collaborate with New York Communities for Change with whom she hosted an “Oil Is Death” “fashion protest” at which activists and Subkoff’s dancer friends wore the reworked pieces as well as those from the embroidered upcycled cotton program. There is an alignment between Subkoff’s values and those of the protesters, which, she said, “is trying to evoke and create real change for everyone.
When IOC started back in 2000, vintage was not yet normalized, and the brand wasn’t showing pristine historical garments either, but ones that showed their wear. The spring 2023 collection, which is less cohesive than others, is “very much in the vein of the original OG Imitation Y2K fashion of 2000, which is Situationist theory, punk rock feeling, and the idea of making a spectacle,” said Subkoff.
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