Once a cultural way station for immigrants, this ever-evolving neighborhood offers an authentic taste of Korean culture
, where a deejay spins hip-hop, a trendy crowd samples vegan nachos, and more than a few are sipping “Purple Haze” cocktails..” It’s not the password to the hotel’s Wifi or its speakeasy. Instead, it’s the name of a long-standing, late-night Korean restaurant serving comfort in the form of spicyin 1974, a year after I was born, and made our way to Koreatown. Back then, there were no glamorous hotel bars and certainly no speakeasies.
For immigrants like us, this neighborhood was a familiar way station in the inscrutable America of the 1970s. In this bustling, multicultural patch east ofand west of Art Deco downtown, people spoke our language and ate the same foods. In Koreatown, we found the password to unlock the “American Dream” we had traveled so far to find.
Today, my parents would feel disoriented, too. Like many places across the country, Koreatown is changing. It’s a neighborhood literally on the rise with construction cranes crowding the landscape. There are fewer mom-and-pop restaurants—some, victims of the pandemic—and more millennial-owned cafés. It’s a hub for business travelers from abroad.Photograph by Timothy Swope, AlamyBut amid celebrity-backed barbecue restaurants and gleaming new hotels, vestiges of the old Koreatown still exist.
On Interstate 10 near the Normandie Avenue exit, a sign installed in 1982 still beckons to the heart of Koreatown. It draws day-trippers looking to dip into the “trend of K-dramas, K-pop, and K-beauty. Netflix has even gotten into the spirit; recently the streaming serviceto Koreatown, where fans participated in the show’s version of “Red Light, Green Light” and ateThe same traffic sign calls to me, too.
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