In Mexico City, the Best Part of the Meal Comes Long After Dessert

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In Mexico City, the Best Part of the Meal Comes Long After Dessert
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Literally translating to “over table,” sobremesa refers to the time people spend drinking, smoking, and talking around the table once a meal is done

On a rainy summer night in Mexico City, my friend Sofía and I were sitting at the bar of the restaurant where we had agreed to meet for dinner, sneaking anxious glances at the table we were waiting for. The couple occupying it had finished their meal long before we arrived, but their animated conversation showed no signs of slowing down.

I like to think I perfected the art of sobremesa back in college, when my roommates and I were almost always relegated to our apartment’s dining room by virtue of our limited student budgets. Having never gotten around to saving up for a couch, every day we congregated around a long table that we’d fashioned from a door.

There are differences between the sorts of conversations that take place while sharing a meal and those that happen after it’s finished, during sobremesa. Once a tequila bottle is opened and a cloud of smoke settles atop the table, people are ready to let loose. “During a good sobremesa you can close a great business deal — or lose one — or establish a friendship, or argue your way into a rivalry,” says Juan Luis Carrera, a wedding planner from Guadalajara.

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