This 2,000-year-old city is a fascinating mash-up of ancient sites, traditional food, and new energy
is an extraordinary clutch of four frescoed graves, once part of a larger necropolis for Greek Neapolis from the fourth century B.C. to the first century A.D.
“Artists have always brought our history forward,” he says, adding that Naples’ location, beside an active volcano and open to attack from the sea, has instilled a need to keep history close to hand. “Naples is a high-risk place—we know everything can change from one second to the next,” he says. “So we try to drag things from the past into the present before they disappear. And because of that uncertainty from Vesuvius, we renew, renew, renew.
, Teresa Iorio flings ingredients—meatballs, corn, even cream—onto the dough, as her sister yells out the orders. She specializes in fried pizza, she tells me— what women made for centuries while the men were twirling dough discs.
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