It’s no secret that the history of fashion is laden with cultural appropriation – but in a changed world, designers are finding thoughtful new ways to spotlight work rooted in heritage and tradition.
“Appropriation is when you turn something into a costume – like wearing a qipao with chopsticks in your hair,” says Chinese-American designer Kim Shui, who incorporates qipao-style collars into her own pieces but has seen other designers plagiarise the style – as well as larger brands pigeonhole entire vast, kaleidoscopic cultures into one specific look and co-opting it. “It’s not coming from a genuine place.
About a year ago, after seeing more and more harmful interpretations of my own Indigenous culture resurface on the resale market, I made it my new hobby to collect these pieces. My archive includes a gold cocktail ring from an Italian luxury label in the shape of a cartoonish headdress, as well as a vintage sports tee with the derogatory term “Squaw” written on it.
Why would I willingly spend money on items that I have no intention of wearing? It’s simple: Because purchasing them takes them off the market. They also – by spotlighting an era in fashion that left a lot to be desired in terms of inclusivity – have a historical value. “Back in the day, there were so many Chinese-inspired collections or geisha costumes,” says Shui, nodding to the 1990s and 2000s, when the runways were particularly rife with appropriation.
More recently, thanks largely to social movements such as Black Lives Matter, there’s been a major shift in public consciousness around racism and matters of cultural sensitivity. By connecting directly with artisans from various communities to spotlight their unique beauty – from the point of view of those communities’ members – designers are able to reflect a more thoughtful appreciation of cultures that inspire their work without merely appropriating them.
Through her accessories label Brother Vellies, for instance, Aurora James is collaborating directly with artisans in Africa to produce shoes and handbags. “We need to celebrate artisans doing this traditional work so they can create a living for themselves and continue preserving their craft,” says James. “I want people to consider
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