The 15 best dishes in Los Angeles of 2019
In this episode of “Off Menu,” Lucas Kwan Peterson heads to the Chinese food mecca the San Gabriel Valley, and chats with historian David Chan and Kato’s Jon Yao.At his second Santa Monica restaurant, Dave Beran trains his brainpower on reengineered French classics that straddle bistro and haute-dining traditions: scallop quenelle in caviar beurre blanc, onion tart, trout amandine, chocolate souffle, rice pudding in a cloud of cream.
Minh Phan won me over early this year with the signature dishes that comprise her restaurant’s name. When I returned in August, there was a salad, new to the menu, based on the spent oolong leaves Phan used to make iced tea. She cured the leaves in tepache, a beverage made from fermented pineapples or other fruits, until they were fruity-funky and a little fizzy .
After sushi, sashimi, dashi, hot pot, tempura and other seasonal rhapsodies, the final savory course at Brandon Hayato Go’s seven-seat restaurant is always maze gohan, or “mixed rice.” Go grills an oilier variety of fish, such as king mackerel, before mixing its deboned flesh with the rice in a copper pot. Smoky fat glosses every grain. He serves the maze gohan on a tray with pickles, miso soup and charcoal-roasted hojicha tea, and you can — and will — opt in for seconds — and maybe thirds.
My dinners at Hayato were some of my most extraordinary meals in recent years; I find myself thinking about the rice course more than any other, partly due to its frank deliciousness but also because of the communal moment its presentation engenders. Formality breaks down among the small group of diners; we no longer politely contain our exhilaration. Go has stood in front of us all night cooking; now he starts to quietly philosophize.
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