See every look from La DoubleJ's spring 2023 collection:
JJ Martin has been living in Italy for 21 years, but its effusive beauty still isn’t lost on her; it can activate a bounty of images, feelings, and perceptions. Despite her intensive traveling across the country, there are still so many surprises and discoveries to be made. “Recently I went to Naples for the first time,” she said at the store presentation of La DoubleJ’s spring collection. “I was flabbergasted. I loved it so much—it’s an insanely gorgeous place.
To put it into La DoubleJ, or LDJ, parlance, Naples is a city with an extremely intense high-vibrational energy—it makes for an over-the-top experience in many ways. No wonder it resonated with Martin’s equally high octane vitality: “I’m just obsessed,” she said. “I’ve also spent so much time in Ischia, the Amalfi coast, Capri, so I wanted to transfer that gorgeous Southern Italy opulent spirit and intensity into the collection.
As always there was plenty to like chez la JJ. Every season there’s no shortage of ebullient, effervescent propositions sprinkled with her joie de vivre and sense of humor. The ubiquitous ’90s minimalism doesn’t do it for Martin, who’s unfazed by trends and follows her own beat. For spring there were lots of new prints inspired by traditional Neapolitan or Caprese tiles, or by bits of decorations, found in historical sites she has visited around Milan, collaged into new patterns.
The offer of solid colors was expanded; the introduction of white lace looked fresh, as in a sinuous, gently body-skimming dress with long bell sleeves that made for a covetable piece. More textured surfaces gave LDJ’s best-selling shapes a new attractive look; her pieces were often reversible; smart practical details were user-friendly the way only a woman designer can come up with.
The collection had a younger feel, while keeping LDJ’s full-on intensity. The Neapolitan inspiration didn’t translate literally into the collection; it was more about a feel of opulence and richness. “Naples, for me, is a manifestation of Italian exuberance—everything Italy is known for: the food, the colors, the energy. The chaos, which is really head-smashingly maddening, is amplified in Naples,” offered Martin. “I am an amplified person, so I love being in intense places.
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