“So far, [Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski’s] Hermès show is my favorite of the spring 2020 season,” writes CathyHoryn. More on Givenchy, Thom Browne, and Comme des Garçons at ParisFashionWeek
Left to right: Hermes, Givenchy, and Comme des Garcons. Photo: Getty Images. Illustration: Lauren Tamaki You could say the Paris shows this season are woven together by a certain thread of politics. Nods to power, inclusivity and the future of the planet, have all come up. Givenchy, on Sunday night, introduced jeans repurposed from old stock, a significant first step for a couture house better known for princesses, from Audrey to Meghan Markle.
That’s exactly what Vanhee-Cybulski did. So far, her Hermès show is my favorite of the spring 2020 season. Leather comprised roughly 70 percent of the collection, with the rest in double-faced knits or cashmere, cotton, and tissue-thin wool. But the leather styles had the same textural weight as the wovens and knits, and every minimalist line conveyed sensuality. We know from her previous show — particularly the one a year ago at Longchamp — that Vanhee-Cybulski loves color.
Givenchy. Photo: Getty Images For me, though, the show lacked the visual sharpness of Waight-Keller’s previous collections. It was neither one thing nor the other — the tomboyish, downtown-girl styles drifting into the territory of Stella McCartney, and the Parisian elements missing the patrician smartness of Givenchy. The denim, ultimately, didn’t make a distinctive design statement.
Thom Browne. Photo: Getty Images In terse press notes, the Comme des Garçons collection was called “Orlando, Act II, transformation and liberation.” Rei Kawakubo has been asked to do the costumes for Olga Neuwirth’s adaptation of Orlando, the Virginia Woolf novel about an English nobleman who becomes a woman and lives for centuries. The new opera will debut in December at the Vienna State Opera.
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