At the Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2023 womenswear show, Nicolas Ghesquière reached the height of experimentation, innovation and futurism 🔮
Yet it wasn’t everything amped up to colossal scale. Ghesquière’s clothes were fitted close to the body, defining the silhouette with low-rise trousers, sleeveless tops, mini dresses. Many cleaved closer to the body than usual, even, making those XXL details seem even more incongruous. Rather than the models made doll-like, or the clothes seeming outscale, the effect was as if our view of the world as a whole had been warped, snippets of reality pulled out of context.
This collection also undoubtedly reflected the influence of the Internet on generations of fashion designers – or even the iPhone, come to think of it. Pinch-to-zoom means no detail is too small to grab our attention, even in a fashion show where, until recently, you could miss the small stuff designers sweat over while being overwhelmed by the bigger, bolder picture.
That’s all interesting because it's what makes Ghesquière a modern designer. Not just that he creates clothes that look modern – he does, even when he’s looking back consciously at history, as he has for the past few seasons. In actual fact, his clothes are usually ahead of their time, predicting what other designers will become obsessed with seasons after himGhesquière is a modern designer in the way he designs, in the way he looks at the world.
His eye is attuned to new ways of thinking and seeing – and that’s what this show was engineered to echo.
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