Designer Raul Lopez closed NYFW with a show packed to the brim—making it clear that he's shaping a new legacy fashion house that plays by its own rules.
always draws a chaotic crowd. For the past few seasons, the designer behind Luar has been the underdog label onminds—from his Ana “It” bags to his subculture-fueled aesthetics, which are always inspired by his own Latinx community.
Even if you don’t immediately know his name, Lopez has been in the industry for over a decade, having started out as one of the cofounders of Hood by Air. His if-you-know-you-know label Luar was born in 2011; it temporarily went on hiatus in 2014 and again in 2019—but he returned to NYFW just in time for spring 2022. The brand’s rise since then has been, in a word, astronomical.
Some of the same ideas seen in Luar’s previous collection shown at The Shed at Hudson Yards last season were expanded on and refined—and looked a lot more expensive, too. Take, for instance, the pinstripe cocoon-like suit, or the flounces of feathers that jutted out from oval cutout knit dresses. The hooded capes integrated into checkered gowns, and swingy fur coats lent a sort of ostentatiousness that previously hadn’t been seen within a Luar collection.
There’s undoubtedly a vibe shift happening at New York Fashion Week—and planting one of the most talked-about designers as the grand finale of fashion’s biggest biannual event only cemented that feeling. Sure, NYFW has always been about the underdog but Luar also represents community culture—which the New York scene so desperately needs at the moment.
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