Chef and restaurateur Clare Smyth of London’s Core on the joys of dirty martinis, seasonal fare and Sunday pub roasts.
People think they know London because they have been to all the latest restaurants, but that’s not how to get the best out of it.to everywhere else. You have to go beyond the online lists and media guides. Some of the greatest places have been around for a long time, and there’s a reason for it. They’re real gems.of Mayfair, which is my go-to for an easy, informal dinner on a night off. I always have the same order: Irish oysters, followed by Dover sole, potatoes and a rocket salad.
If you really want to know the hottest restaurants in London, they’re the ones where it’s the most difficult to get a reservation. That means Brett Graham’s restaurant,All three of us are in Notting Hill, which seems to be where people want to be these days. Mayfair is changing so quickly, and a lot of the new restaurants there aren’t for serious eaters, they’re a little gimmicky. I prefer dining at the places that reflect the London I know.
The floor staff at The Ritz treat everyone the same, whether it’s a guest in her 80s, or children who have come with their parents. They do it effortlessly, making a joke with a young guest, while carving at the table and serving everyone. They don’t make a big deal out of it. It’s something I find beautiful, as I am sitting there watching it all happen around me. It’s like watching culinary history.
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