The pawpaw berry, America’s largest native edible tree fruit, grows wild and plenty in 26 states, but it’s almost never in grocery stores. Michael Judd, a self-proclaimed pawpaw ambassador, is trying to change that.
From mid-August to early October, Michael Judd, an edible-landscape designer from Maryland, eats almost nothing but pawpaw, a creamy mango-shaped fruit that tastes like candied banana. He loves pawpaw crème brûlée, pawpaw panna cotta, lasagna with black beans and pawpaw. When pawpaw season is at its height, as it is now, he spends so much time harvesting that he barely has any time for meals.
The pawpaw-curious arrived and sat in a semicircle around Judd. Most wore pragmatic outfits: orthopedic sandals, waterproof ankle boots, dirty trousers. Judd, who is forty-eight, with pointed features, sipped on pawpaw mead. “I’m a modern-day pawpaw ambassador,” he said. “Pawpaws for the people! It’s a movement.” He explained that he’d lived for twenty years in Latin America, mostly in Nicaragua, where he became interested in equatorial plants.
“The first one I tried was too ripe,” a woman with big dark-brown curls said. “And I didn’t like it at all.” A young man wearing glasses interrupted to ask for advice on germinating seeds that he was storing in his fridge. “I just want to know: Is it, like, as easy as dropping seeds in Central Park?” he said. “Juice?” Judd responded. He sounded indignant.
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