Italian-American dishes were practically a Sopranos character in and of itself. StreamOnMax ad
first aired, I was 9 years old — so I wasn’t exactly the show’s target audience. My New Jersey-based, Italian-American family, though? Well they, like most of America, were obsessed. We skirted out of Sunday family gatherings so my parents could get home just in time to send my brother and I to bed and tune in. We were told specifically to not come downstairs, too — which only made the show more intriguing.we were allowed to participate in: the food.
We never had meatball soup with ’scarole at Thanksgiving — and I’m grateful for that, because it’s a meal in its own right. It’s homey and filling, perfect for cold winter nights or sick days, which was usually when my mother planned to cook a batch. She would make her own broth , then simmer homemade meatballs, escarole, and carrots together before adding in broken spaghetti. Then, she would serve it with a healthy grating of Parm.
This was the soup she fortuitously had on the stove one especially chilly night during winter break my sophomore year of college. That night, just a few days before Christmas, two other college students were selling subscriptions to the local newspaper in the bitter cold and knocked on our door. Rather than buying a subscription, she told them to nix their paper route and come in for a bowl of her minestra — to which they happily obliged.
It was also the soup she had me make for us when she was recovering from a surgery, the page of the cookbook dogeared and covered in her notes .myself until 2020 — and while I was shuttered at home, family dinners and holiday celebrations happening over Zoom, the show felt uncannily familiar.
I’ve made my mom’s/Carmela’s minestra a few times on my own, but, of course, it never feels like theirs. So, I usually only have it on the few occasions I end up in my mom’s kitchen on a long weekend for a visit. When I do, she’s sure to honor that other Italian-American tradition of serving mine in a massive bowl that’s practically overflowing, then nagging me if I can’t finish.
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