'At an epic gathering of natural winemakers in France’s verdant river valley, I slurped oysters and downed magnums and got a sense of what makes this community, and its wine, so special.' Longreads
Needless to say, I did not walk out of that conference room thinking I would be booking a ticket to France the following month.
Our hotel was close to Hervé’s vineyard, a straight shot down a narrow country road flanked with towering trees, and we rolled up to what I understood to be the pre-party at 6:30 p.m. sharp to find a dozen or so mostly middle-aged winemakers slurping wine and shucking fat emerald-tinged Brittany oysters. I spotted Hervé right away. Sturdy, almost boyish looking despite his salt-and-pepper hair, he greeted me warmly with a handshake and a smile. And then...
More people showed up; more snacks were carted out. Wide ceramic troughs of homemade country pork pâté and rough, aspic-jiggly headcheese, wheels of crusty brown bread, fat links of saucisson sec, more oysters. The standing tables outside gradually filled with bottles in various states of open and emptiness, some of whose labels I recognized and some without labels at all. Then, at around 10 p.m.
As things got looser I started making inroads with the younger crowd, the millennial sons and daughters of winemakers who were getting ready to take the reins from their parents. Joseph Mosse, the son of Agnès and René Mosse, who poured splashes of his herbaceous prototype vermouth into my glass of pét-nat rosé. I met Héloïse Lienhardt, who along with her brother Antoine took over the family winemaking operation in Burgundy.
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