Can these bars scale while maintaining what keeps the special?
Some concepts are tailor-made for expansion. No one is surprised when a Shake Shack opens nearby, that’s what Shake Shake is designed for. But to the extent that these bars have established a brand for themselves, they’ve done it on the back of hospitality, creativity, and superlative quality, which are all exceptional and highly personal attributes. How do you franchise that?David Kaplan laughs a little at the question.
“It’s no garden walk,” says Dante’s owner Linden Pride, “We built these businesses on our backs. It’s a big labor of love.” Pride has temporarily relocated to Los Angeles, where a recent Monday night saw him on the floor shaking hands, bussing tables, and running food. His wife and kids go back to New York when the school year starts, but he says he’ll possibly be in L.A. through the end of the year. “Could be longer,” he says, “I don’t know.
For their part, Death and Co. does quality control a slightly different way. As consultants they’ve helped to open over 50 bars across the country, experiences which they’ve used to sharpen their extensive systems. “We’re a company that is relatively process obsessed,” says Kaplan. When opening a Death & Co., the staff gets exhaustive, multi-week, multi-phase training: Paperwork, hands-on quizzes, drills, mock service, classics, cocktail creation, and so on.
Of Dante, Pride says, “A lot of people have said to us that the feeling in the room [of Beverly Hills] is similar to the feeling in the room in New York, and to me, that’s the ultimate compliment.” He says that Dante has always been about trying to create a transportative moment for the guests, whether they’re stepping off the sidewalk chaos of Greenwich Village or off an elevator onto the breezy ninth floor rooftop of a luxury hotel.
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