Mosel riesling has long been defined by technical winemaking. Can the region embrace a natural wine approach? (via punch_drink)
A staple of the modern sommelier lexicon, the term captures the difficulty of articulating the convergence of taste and texture.
It’s not unexpected that much of this rise of natural wine is from producers who are deeply committed to mindful farming. Sybille Kuntz, who has been farming organically since 1984, has since 2015 been making an orange riesling, an idea that came by way of her vineyard manager. “We had only tasted bad orange wine,” she jokes, emphasizing grape quality and cleanliness as crucial for the style. What started with one barrel became three, and has tripled every year since.
Much of the experimentation from the likes of Busch has led to an influx of upstarts. “It’s cool to see new producers or outsiders coming in from outside the Mosel to look for abandoned or vineyard sites that aren’t the crus and buy up vines where they can be a little more experimental,” says Josh Perlman, beverage director at Giant in Chicago.Mosel iconoclast Ulli Stein
He is joined by other upstarts, including Wolfram Stempel, an import from Bavaria, who is working organically in the Mittel Mosel in the largely unknown village of Maring. His tiny-production wines are nearly impossible to find, but he remains one to watch. As does Jakob Tennstedt, who produces single-vineyard rieslings without filtration and without added sulfur in the wooded wilds above the village of Traben-Trarbach.
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