Critic Patricia Escárcega discusses the decision to drop italics from Food stories.
My resolution this year is to cook more ambitious, dinner party-level dishes. I was inspired by a recent Food team party hosted by cooking editor Genevieve Ko, who modestly invited us for a casual, snacky get-together, then delivered a feast of Spanish charcuterie, pork roast and the crowning glory of the evening: a terrific paella. I’m still thinking about that meal.For starters, the print Food section is moving to Sundays! Look for our section in your Sunday paper starting tomorrow, Jan. 5.
Italics are intended to facilitate clarity by signaling to readers that they haven’t stumbled onto a typo. Who are we writing for when we decide to italicize “salsa roja?” Salsa sales overtook ketchup sales in this country decades ago. Birria, xiao long bao, sai krok Isaan, crepes, American cheese — they’re all foods we enjoy and ought to consider without qualifiers. The sense of exoticizing foods through typography felt less like we were helping readers but rather signaling that one of these things was not like the other.
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