Niccolò Pasqualetti Spring 2024 Ready-to-Wear collection, runway looks, beauty, models, and reviews.
, but perhaps it’s better understood as part of a larger story. This Italian has created a world with undulating and amorphous borders where gender and genre distinctions don’t hold, and where flat pattern pieces are inflated into 3D wonders. The most dramatic example of this in the spring collection was a paper-like dress in candy colors. Creating it, noted Pasqualetti, was like sculpting.
Pasqualetti is a designer of great sensitivity who is able to work a kind of magic on classic pieces, often through the use of curved pattern pieces. The work is a bringing together of straight and curved lines in a way that plays with volume, gesture, and time.
This curvy motif that undulated throughout the lineup, and which Pasqualetti described as being “subtle details of flowers, like minimalistic flowers,” spoke both to the organic shapes the designer is drawn to, and a sense of play. Within this context, a kind of camp shirt with two pockets and steel details looked ready for a glamping trip, especially when paired with tan pants cut large with a volume that was luxurious almost to the point of being baroque.
Despite the fact that there were many new pieces, including the debut of swimwear, one got the feeling that Pasqualetti had taken half a step forward after taking two giant leaps ahead for fall, thus allowing some time for stocktaking here. Pasqualetti revisited crochet, bells, upcycled denim, and shapes from previous collections. This was a smart move not only because the brand is so new and establishing its identity, but because the pieces are so distinct they require attention.