Young, curly kale leaves are sweet and nutty, without the pungent brassica notes of the larger leaves.
have been buying assortments of apples, dipping into the paper bag without looking, crunching skin, flesh and core as I walk back from the shops. As sure as the leaves fall each autumn, the desire to bite into as many different apples as I can, while the season for local varieties is upon us, never lessens.
I added apples to two salads this week, the first a couple of Cox’s with their signature flash of orange and russet, a sharp crunch to a salad of young kale leaves with a roasted peanut dressing. Later in the week, a couple of ice-cold Worcesters, refreshing and slightly tart, went into a simpler salad with walnuts, chicory, Lancashire cheese and walnut oil. I kept the skinsintact and dressed the fruit quickly, so the flesh kept its bright colour.
The late, wet spring has led to just one, admittedly rather beautiful, Doyenne du Comice on my espalier outside the kitchen. I barely saw a bee, butterfly or wasp till the blossom was over, so I was waiting for a smaller harvest than usual, and that is certainly what I got. This pear will be eaten with much quiet ceremony, its juicy, luscious flesh gorged on like the feast it is. My lone, golden pear feels so precious it may even get its own fruit knife and linen napkin.
Heat an overhead grill or griddle pan. Lightly season the gammon with black pepper, then cook on or under the heat until the fat is golden and translucent. Remove from the heat and slice into thick strips. Toss with the kale, its dressing and the roasted peanuts.The simplest of tarts that involves no lining of tart cases or making pastry cream, just pears, sweet pastry and tart jam. I poached the pears from scratch, which took about 30 minutes, including the time it took to peel them.
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