There’s gold to be found on the Bellarine Peninsula, from gold-leaf facials to gold-medalled wines plus wild beaches, wild pinot, wild seals and wild convicts: all just 90 minutes from Melbourne.
What do the Ocean Grove Catholic church, the Barwon Heads’ bridge and the Toorak home of Australia’s first billionaire, Robert Holmes a Court, have in common? Parts of them all are built into Oneday Estate winery in Curlewis, 20 minutes’ east of Geelong . Open only on Sundays, expect live music, wood-fired pizzas and enormous pans of paella in the winery, which owner Sam Murray is expanding to include a new tasting room lined with bluestone salvaged from Melbourne’s old Pentridge Prison.
“And they’re made with so much love,” she says over a St Ali coffee at Ket’s unassuming bakery and cafe in a Wallington barn. For a classically Belgian treat, try their– a thick slab of custard wedged between sheets of sourdough pastry coated in Belgian milk chocolate or, at the other end of the scale, her sourdough rye loaves. Seeback in 2013, and he’s making waves again as the executive chef of Tarra Queenscliff, a restaurant situated in the dramatic new ferry terminal.
The Bellarine bristles with farm gates; one of the best is the Bellarine Smokehouse on the grounds of the Bellarine Estate winery. Sarah Fenton and Jason Smith use salt, smoke and time to create a range of smoked fish, salt and local olive oil. The must-buy product is their smoked salmon pate, a little tub of fabulousness that you can taste in their unassuming shed store. Local, coastal ti-tree ensures a taste of the Bellarine in all their products.
Follow the Barwon Bluff trail from Barwon Heads for eye-stretching views over Zeally Bay and Bass Strait. Apart from the wooden staircases leading up to the bluff, most of it is easy-going on boardwalks. Take a seat for reflection and that coffee you bought from the blue, weatherboard Jetty Road Kiosk which, in another life, was Diver Dan’s boat shed inBelinda Jackson
is drawn to curious alleyways, street-eat carts and places of wild emptiness. She searches the globe for the weekly Expert Expats column.
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