Eschewing the excess of fast fashion, a new breed of Australian designers are making a mark with clothes that are customised and made on demand
Melbourne designer Courtney Holm of A.BCH: ‘The standard sizing system is flawed.’ Photograph: Ellen Smith/The Guardian
For Nolan, the process begins with a client consultation that lets her find out what the customer needs from her garments. She says made-to-measure allows her to make “garments for the body and for the client’s life” – things she describes as being the “crux of a good product” that have been “diluted” by current ready-to-wear clothing.
Both models are quite a departure from the pervasiveness of fast fashion that capitalises on a consumer desire for immediacy. Bigeni’s process takes a couple of weeks because he is making everything in-house, while Nolan’s can take up to two months, as her patterns are cut in Melbourne but her workshop is currently in Suzhou, China.
She says 60% of her revenue comes from selling sizes 14 and 16. Incidentally, according to the Australian Bureau of Statistics, this is the average size of women in Australia even though many of the brands that presented collections during Australian fashion week don’t make clothes over a size 12.Photograph: Ellen Smith/The Guardian
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