How we process a calorie depends on genetics, hormones and the food it’s in. The trouble is that 50% of our calories come from ultra-processed foods – everything from biscuits to hummus
Those neat numbers come from work by Wilbur Olin Atwater, a chemist born in 1844 in New York. His painstaking, years-long analysis involved vaporising a huge number of foods in ruthlessly efficient bomb calorimeters, which unwittingly resulted in our modern calorie-counting obsession. He calculated that fat gave us nine calories per gram, and carbohydrate and protein four calories each per gram.
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