Nutmeg, a pumpkin spice staple, takes the spotlight in Malaysia

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Nutmeg, a pumpkin spice staple, takes the spotlight in Malaysia
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Come fall, even in places where temperatures still resemble summer, we in the United States start thinking of “warming” dishes: roasted meats, mashed potatoes, pumpkin pies, eggnog and, despite how you might feel about it, the most recent addition to the repertoire, the pumpkin spice latte.

When I ask about dishes made with nutmeg seed, he seems briefly stumped. He mentions a Chinese soup that includes duck, pickled greens and whole nutmeg seeds, and tells me that during Chinese New Year, his family would make something called sugee cake, a baked good of possible Portuguese origins that includes nutmeg powder and pickled nutmeg fruit.

with a remote but discernible nutmeg fragrance. Another pickle, with the skin still attached, is astringent andPickled nutmeg, left, for sale at Chowrasta Market in George Town, Malaysia. Top right: Ghee Hup Nutmeg Factory in Balik Pulau, Malaysia. Bottom right: Nutmeg balm for sale at Chowrasta Market.

My first stop is 33 Coffee Shop, a cafe in a semi-open-air food court, where Kenny. K. K. Nah has made a name for himself selling fresh nutmeg juice. “When I juice nutmeg, sometimes it smells like root beer, and I know that that’s a high-quality fruit,” Kenny tells me, through an interpreter.

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