Obvious Wines review: A line of simplified wines argues you 'shouldn't need a PhD' to pick up a bottle. wine redwine whitewine
It’s true, you shouldn’t need a PhD to enjoy wine. Yet apparently the myth persists that wine is something you have to be a full-on Illuminatus to drink, becauseTheir mission: To demystify wine with neat categories, predictable utilitarian packaging that provides a “Just the facts, Ma’am” rundown on what’s in the bottle, and zero flight of fancy, poetic trills, or snooty insider nonsense. Breath of fresh air, right?It’s true, wine is complex.
“Wine” and “gimmick” are a tough pairing, and I have a natural aversion to anything that can reasonably be described as a “lifestyle brand.” I can admit that. So I was prepared for the worst when I was sent some samples to try. Now, if a wine is, it doesn’t matter if it can reasonably be called a lifestyle brand. Just as it doesn’t matter how boutiquey and estate-y a wine is if it sucks.
I tried “Dark & Bold,” “French Bubbly,” “Bright & Crisp” and “Simply Rosé.” None of them are bad wines and none are “best wine of this type I have ever tasted.” The “Dark and Bold” red blend has a densely black-fruity nature and a low-acidity softness that tells me off the bat I am drinking a Bordeaux blend built in California. Maybe a bit generically so, but to be honest I feel that way about many a Cab-Merlot blend.
As for the concept, I won’t lie, something about it makes me feel weird. Does the stripped down labeling style seem like it’s masking sketchy practices? No, at least no more than anyone else’s labeling. They’re attractive labels, and legitimately easy to read. The “Dark and Bold” blend has basic descriptors like “fruit-forward” and “smooth” .
Thing is, reducing what the wine tastes and feels like to a hashtag has serious limitations. For one thing, people vary in how they perceive things. “Dry” is relatively empirical in that residual sugar is something you can quantify, but even that is subject to some interpretation. “Citrus” and “Fruity” are separated on the white , which is slightly eccentric to those of us who consider citrus fruits to be fruits.
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