Expensive components glued together with flair
There is a cinematic convention in the oeuvre of William Hanna and Joseph Barbera that a bulldog can be led blindly into almost any terrible peril by a piece of meat dangled from a fishing rod by a mischievous tomcat. I mention this because it sums up how I felt when I read about Origin City, a restaurant on the edge of Smithfield market where, and here comes the main selling point, “We only use our own Black Angus cattle from our family farm, and we use every part of every beast.
The garlicky sausage was smoked, not in the smokehouse on some far-flung family island, but just downstairs. The lentils were fully “de-vegetablised”. The rigid orthodoxies of the Mediterranean diet demand that lentils be boiled and lightly dressed, but the guys butchering in the basement must have a superfluity of bones and trim and they make a “glace” so thick you could use it to glue tiles to a space shuttle.
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