What to eat this week: Sandwiches from a medical office in Yorba Linda, an over-the-top Hawaiian burger with gravy and Korean bakery treats.
After Ryan DeNicola was furloughed from his job as chef aton Melrose Avenue in 2020, he started consulting and catering. When his father’s medical group moved into the Yorba Linda Packing House in Orange County, DeNicola decided to open a small coffee stand in the lobby. Downstairs, past the arcade games and what looks like a child’s daycare center , there’s a tiny stand called Perking House Coffee selling La Colombe coffee and DeNicola’s sandwiches.Let’s start with that 42-ounce, $175 steak.
He makes six varieties, including a weekly special, all served on soft Amoroso’s rolls. The pork sandwich is his take on the roasted pork and broccoli rabe you’ll find in Philadelphia. He marinates the meat in achiote and grapefruit he grows in his backyard. After three days, he slow-roasts the pork, slices it paper-thin and adds scallions. The meat acts like a sponge in the marinade, soaking up the citrus and the sweet, nutty chile.
DeNicola’s tuna is green and herbaceous, mixed with chervil, dill, tarragon and cilantro. He marinates his roast beef with a blend of dried morita and ancho chiles, roasts it low and slow like the pork, and layers it with provolone and some nostril-singing horseradish mayo. These are the kinds of well-made, thoughtfully structured sandwiches that make me long for a summer picnic.A selection of sweets from Mil Bakery in Koreatown.
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