These golden puffs boast crisp, delicate crusts with fluffy, cloudlike insides.
, just to name a couple), choux is twice-cooked: the process begins on the stovetop, bringing liquid and butter to a boil and adding in flour followed by eggs. . This results in a doughy paste with a high water content and limited elasticity. When cooked, the water vapor inside the dough generates steam and causes its gluten structure to expand, trapping those gases and inflating the puffs.
With that squared away, I pivoted to the potatoes. My tests showed that russet potatoes’ dry, floury texture was ideal in this preparation where lightness is the goal . To produce the fluffiest potatoes, I useof rinsing the cubed potatoes both before and after boiling to remove as much of the starch as possible—that excess starch is one of the main causes of gluey potatoes, so removing it is key.
Next, I had to nail down the ratio of choux to potato. Classic recipes call for weighing the potatoes and adding approximately 30% of its weight in choux pastry. Conversely, newer recipes hover closer to equal parts by weight. I found that adding 70% choux produced golden brown pommes dauphine that were airy, not doughy, with a pronounced potato flavor.
Before I could move on to frying, I ran one last test to see what would happen if I breaded my pommes dauphine with the classic trio of flour, egg, and breadcrumbs, a move which older recipes often call for. After a quick tumble through the breading station, I tossed one into the fryer. When pommes dauphine are fried, they puff, so it wasn’t exactly a surprise to see the coating quickly crack as the dauphine puffs swelled, sloughing off into the hot oil.
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