Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada celebrate idiosyncrasy, while Ian Griffiths foregrounds mathematical tailoring
show is never a straightforward beauty pageant, so when the co-designers Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons go out of their way to be contrary and challenging, the result is, frankly, pretty weird.
Thick woollen tights with belt loops. A boob tube with snap pockets on the nipples. Shoes that peel back at the heels like curls of butter. In the cavernous concrete of Prada’s Milanese headquarters, the catwalk was twisted into hairpin bends, so that the audience couldn’t see what was coming next. Each outfit was crazier than the last. A strapless lemon ballgown with sunglasses the size of a gas mask was followed by black jeans tucked into dirty white cowboy boots.
The collection was bold in its unpalatability, and Prada admitted that she had been “very, very nervous for this show, much more than usual”. The collection doubled down on Prada’s oddball DNA, dotted with Easter eggs in the form of cameo appearances by cult Prada shoes, including a brogue with an espadrille sole last seen on the catwalk in September 2010. “There was an intention of showing how you can use old things,” she said.
Elegant maths is essential for elegant tailoring. A dressmaker uses precise angles to make the darts that turn a flat piece of fabric into a three-dimensional one. Those workings-out are usually hidden discreetly away, but this collection celebrated them. Angles were out and proud on the catwalk. The projection of a sharp shoulder on a tailored, chocolate-brown coat, the Pythagoras-slice of a dress triangulated by a one-shouldered neckline, the symmetry of a tightly cinched waist.
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