See every look from R13’s fall 2023 collection:
That’s the question Chris Leba kept asking himself after the holiday season had him ruminating on elegance. The R13 girl has an elusive cool, an edgy, undeniably downtown spirit, so how would she approach formal dress?
The answer lay in a variety of visuals that remain on Leba’s mind, though the following two felt the most explicit: The first was Ralph Lauren’s—the man—habit of pairing a tuxedo jacket with jeans and cowboy boots for formal outings . The second was a performance of “My Way” by the Sex Pistols, for which Sid Vicious wore a white tuxedo jacket.
Leba always describes R13 as being rooted in the classics: A good shirt, a great pair of pants, a well cut jacket, all with a little twist . Crisp white button downs were styled with white fishnets on top , and tuxedo pants were reimagined as cargos, their accent satin tape left hanging off d-rings rather than applied onto the side seams.
Last season, Leba introduced a Margiela-esque flat two-piece sleeve, which he carried over into this lineup, this time cut in raw-edged leather or finished with satin binding. Another idea he expanded on for fall was his street print experiments, which see him and his team take photos of street art and place them onto garments either blown up, shrunken, or digitally altered—these were particularly compelling this season, and sat well with the overall punk-rock spirit of the lineup.
Leba is a textile obsessive, and this season his discoveries included boiled wool ; a luscious wool suiting—which, according to the mill, “is what James Bond would have his suits made out of,”—repurposed and overdyed jacket liners; and a delicious Japanese red velvet.
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