Little pouches of cheese, oregano and honey melted to stringy, gooey perfection
A few weeks ago, there was a cheese fair at the back of the old slaughterhouse here in Testaccio. Thirty cheesemakers set up stalls in two of the conference rooms that look out on to what was, from 1891 until 1975, Campo Boario, a 13-acre cattle market and trading area overlooked by a circular control tower.
“Set out your stall” was one of my grandad’s favourite expressions, often used at night to remind us not only to lay out our school uniforms and pack our bags, but to get our thoughts ready for the next day. As a kid, I wished that laying out thoughts was as straightforward and satisfying as picking out socks and sharpening pencils. I still do. Maybe I should be running a market stall? Or maybe I should just admire and inhale the work of others.
In a small bowl, mix six tablespoons olive oil with the dried rchilli and oregano, then spoon this over the cheese. Drizzle a teaspoon of honey over each portion, gather the edges of the foil to create a loose pouch and scrunch the edges to seal. Put the pouches on a rack over the hot coals. The time it takes to cook will depend on the type of cheese and the heat of the barbecue – and also how melted and golden you want the cheese to be. After about six minutes, open a corner of one of the pouches to check. When you are happy, lift the pouches on to plates.
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