Cleveland chef Jonathon Sawyer has opened Kindling, where the wood-fired grill looms at one of the busiest tourist spots in town.
Kindling, 202 S. Franklin St., in a corner of Willis Tower, as seen on April 19, 2023.
Second, it pains me to say, is the chef. Jonathon Sawyer has a decorated résumé — he’s a James Beard award winner for Best Chef in the Great Lakes region — but his first work in Chicago left me puzzled. After his Beard-winning Greenhouse Tavern in Cleveland shut down in the first months of 2020, Sawyer joined Adorn, the recently renovated concept inside the Four Seasons Hotel Chicago, and his rustic Midwest style seemed to openly, gleefully clash with the high-end atmosphere.
Kindling isn’t exactly cheap, but for its location, it feels approachable. The sizable steak section includes costly prime cuts, but you can also go with the steak frites for a more moderate $28. The steak’s bold beefiness nicely plays off the acidic salsa verde spooned on top. On the side, you’ll find some skinny blonde fries, impeccably crisp and piping hot, like McDonald’s in a fantasy world.
Some dishes do seem like they made the cut because Sawyer was trying to appeal to as many people as possible. There’s a salmon dish, plenty of chicken and, of course, a burger. To make money at this location, Kindling needs something for everyone.
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