Review: Con Todo is not the ambitious project some of us were expecting, but a lively neighborhood bar with great tacos and cocktails.
The pamburguesa, made with two all-beef patties, a sauce referred to as salsa especial, American cheese, pickles and sliced white onions, at the restaurant Con Todo Cantina y Cocina, 2853 N. Kedzie Avenue in Chicago.
The pamburguesa sums up Con Todo fairly well. This is a kitchen unafraid to take the time to do things the hard way — making corn tortillas from scratch, cooking the al pastor over charcoal — yet which also isn’t afraid to cast aside the traditional for whatever sounds most exciting.Most of the menu was designed by Jonathan Zaragoza, one of Chicago’s most promising young chefs.
So the worst thing I can say about Con Todo is that it’s not the ambitious Zaragoza project some of us were hoping it would be. But with Zaragoza out, it’s also easier to see Con Todo has its sights set on something different. Essentially, Con Todo is like a refined version of Big Star: a great place to down a few tacos and cocktails, but with a bright Mexico City vibe instead of a chaotic whiskey-soaked honky-tonk one.
The star of the taco lineup is the al pastor, made by marinating slices of pork, stacking them on a vertical rotisserie known as a trompo and then grilling until the pork is crispy. Unlike most places in town, Con Todo cooks the meat with charcoal instead of gas. This means that each bite has an intoxicating aroma of smoke that lingers in the background. Topped with a generous splash of salsa verde, this is a fine way to start any meal.
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