You say you love tacos, but what are you willing to sacrifice for a good one? Your time? Your comfort?
A plate of tacos — tongue, sausage, carnitas and beef — at Taqueria La Placita in Hyattsville, Md. By Tim Carman Tim Carman Reporter focusing on national food issues; critic covering affordable and under-the-radar restaurants in the D.C. area. Email Bio Follow Food reporter/columnist March 26 at 10:30 AM Would you drive out of your way for a good taco?
The older I get, the more these lines sound like prejudices, a form of casual racism that’s deeply ingrained and not thoroughly vetted. These words sound like the excuses the privileged use to justify their disregard for a cuisine when it’s not convenient for them. Diners pack the dining room at Taqueria La Placita on a recent Sunday afternoon. Each of these 10 taquerias may stretch your boundaries. They certainly stretched mine — at least the act of picking my favorites did, which strained my loyalties to old standbys and forced me to question whether I prefer tradition or modernity. This is, without question, the single hardest list I’ve ever compiled. Good taco shops were left off this Top 10, places I deeply respect and enjoy.
And that was that. I had made a long trek to Germantown and come away empty-handed. The trip was yet another reminder, as if I needed one, that not all taco adventures have happy endings. I trust your travels to the taquerias below will have rosier outcomes. I know they all have regular hours. They also have some of the best tacos anywhere.
Chef/owner Victor Albisu with a Sid Vicious taco at the Chinatown outpost of his local Taco Bamba chain. 8. Taco Bamba No taqueria takes as many chances as Taco Bamba, the small local chain owned by Victor Albisu, a chef with exceptional fine-dining chops. Albisu and his main accomplice, chef Tom Hall, push the outer limits of taco invention. If classic Mexican tacos embrace minimalism, Taco Bamba prefers complexity with its tacos nuestros, which vary by location.
Seared wahoo tacos with crushed avocado, cumin crema, olive crumble, shaved pickled fennel, tomatillo andjalapeño salsa at Espita Mezcaleria. 5. Espita Mezcaleria The epicurean taco, I’d argue, is a still relatively modern invention, designed to satisfy the ambitions of the chef and the palates of fussy diners who may not dig on pork skin.
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