Review: The Reserve, the Newest Jewel of Chagrin Falls, Will Make You Forget About Umami

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Review: The Reserve, the Newest Jewel of Chagrin Falls, Will Make You Forget About Umami
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A revamped interior and a menu of dazzling small plates gives the spot a breezy wine bar vibe

“I feel like this is exactly what the space wanted to be all along,” says my wife, moments after easing onto her barstool at The Reserve in Chagrin Falls.

Despite the same occupancy, the dining room somehow feels more spacious. Roomy booths, which can be reserved in advance, accommodate groups of five or six. A new brick archway offers a bit of separation between front and back of the house while tying into the exposed brick walls. That aged brick wall now forms a handsome backdrop for the bar, which has been beefed up in terms of spirits and cocktails.

In true tapas style, diners are encouraged to order at will. We paired glasses of crisp Greek rose with some fresh, buttery, raw fish. The daily sashimi is a colorful trio of tuna, salmon and yellowtail slices served with soy, ponzu, wasabi and pickled onion. Sticking with the raw theme, we progressed to steak tartare , a mound of course-chopped but tender beef. An aioli starring smoked oyster, which gets smeared across the crostini, adds a welcome dose of umami.

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