Review: Vermilion transforms with one woman’s fiery Indian Chinese flavors and convictions

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Review: Vermilion transforms with one woman’s fiery Indian Chinese flavors and convictions
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The new Indian Chinese transformation of Vermilion brings it back from the brink of everything, everywhere, all at once, via Kolkata, the childhood hometown of Rohini Dey, a woman whose flavors are as fiery as her convictions.

“Muslims have been lynched on the streets and are getting completely disenfranchised because of what’s going on with the Modi government,” Dey said. “India is 80% Hindu. And technically, the cow is sacred in Hinduism. But India is also secular.”

“I wear my heart on my sleeve,” she said. “I do not believe in straddling the fence politically. And if my philosophy doesn’t appeal to everybody, I get it. It is not for everybody.” Wok of Life, available as shrimp or paneer toast reimagines the dim sum dish. With paneer, it’s like a fantastic fried Indian Chinese pimento grilled cheese sandwich with green chile and fresh cilantro.You Say Sichuan, deceptively simple jackfruit and vegetable fried spring rolls, can be counted as some of the best I’ve had anywhere, with shattering crisp wrappers around complex fillings.

My server, who also served as bartender, is to be commended for not only his ease with the precarious platings, but effortless hospitality that clearly comes from experience. Nothing wins you over more than someone asking if you’d like your regular table on just a second visit.

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