'I wasn't quite prepared for the quality I found behind the unassuming shopfront on a quiet street,' writes Besha Rodell. 'Julian Hills and his team at Navi are turning out truly exceptional food' goodfoodAU BeshaRodell
The small storefront owner-operated restaurant is the dream of many a chef. To run your own kitchen, to be your own boss, to cater to your own vision rather than answer to owners who may be more concerned with profit than quality, is a goal of many a starry-eyed young cook. And, for many reasons, it's a dream not often achieved.
Because of the size and location of the space, there's an aura of entering someone's home, and the service follows suit. There's an ease to dining here, a feeling of welcome. With all the requisite stretchy, sugared magic, this is a doubly impressive feat: making a world-class confection, then incorporating fish eggs and having the result taste harmonious and elegant.
Take the Murray cod, served here as a tartare, its buttery raw flesh spruiked with the zing of finger lime and salted plum, cooled with a cream made from bunya nut and a layer of whipped cod fat, and given tiny pops of crunch from puffed wild rice and"bacon" made from cod. There's mind-boggling complexity, as well as an exquisite balance, to almost all of the food here.
There are items from the regular menu available, like those black garlic macaron , but there are also things made especially for the bar, such as crudites with miso, chilli and native pepperberry .
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