Soft and sticky slow-roasted spuds topped with crunchy pumpkin seed dukkah and heaps of soft cheese make for a textural delight in every bite.
Years ago chef John Yelinek accidentally left a batch of sweet potatoes baking in the back of a hot oven. Now this is his favorite way of getting crispy, charred skins and custardy interiors. At Ladder 4 Wine Bar in Detroit, MI—one of our—the soft sweet potatoes serve as a base for spiced seeds and heaps of cheese.
At home, a moderate hour-long roast gets the job done . Scrub, but don’t pierce—and definitely don’t peel—the sweet potato skins; they act as an incubator, allowing the insides to transform from rock hard to yieldingly gooey. The pumpkin seed dukkah is meant to act as a savory granola. Keep it coarse and barely broken down for optimal textural contrast. To switch things up, use a soft cheese like Taleggio or stracciatella in place of the triple-cream.
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