The FT’s Unhedged author shrugs off the wolves of Wall Street to wrestle tuna at Black Sands Lodge
To the uninitiated, on a calm day, open water looks like a featureless expanse. The motors thrum, the boat cuts through the ocean, and the horizon separates two even shades of blue.
From Bahía Solano it’s a 20-minute boat ride to the lodge, out at the tip of the jungle-swaddled peninsula that forms the west side of the bay. Whenever the steady breeze occasionally lets up, the salt and humidity are tactile. “The sea eats everything,” Felipe sighs. “Anything you don’t use is rusty or mouldy in, like, two days.” Clouds hang more or less permanently over the mountains in the distance.
Still, late and hungover, we caught a lot of fish. What is so special about fishing off Bahía Solano is that almost no one else is there. “What’s amazing about this place,” my friend Scott says, “is the opportunity to target so many different species with essentially no other fishermen around, no ‘fishing pressure’ as we call it.
Deep-water jigging – fishing for bottom-dwellers with short rods – takes less skill but plenty of strength. We dropped special weighted lures some 400ft down and then brought them back up jerkily a few metres at a time, hoping to attract bites, ideally from grouper . What I caught instead was a big amberjack, a fish known as a “reef donkey” for its muscular resistance. It immediately bent my rod almost in half. I felt like I was pulling a refrigerator up from the ocean bottom.
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