See every look from OfficialRodarte’s spring 2023 collection:
“We started off by being very inspired by music and the theatricality of performing on stage,” said Laura Mulleavy, explaining Rodarte’s spring collection on a recent Zoom call, sitting next to her sister Kate. Even if you hadn’t heard her say it, you’d only need to take a quick glance at the first look of the collection to get it: a model in a psychedelic swirled slip dress, her blue hair asymmetrically Aqua Net-ted to new heights.
The color palette was one way the sisters achieved their sartorial goals, especially on simple slip dresses—some lingerie-inspired, others with a more vintage flare—in shades of acid orange, turquoise blue, grass green, and rose petal pink, familiar to anyone who grew up a little bit alternative in the ’90s.
A sense of ease and lightness was achieved on an entirely hand knit purple gown with long sleeves and a contrasting orange trim on the hem and cuffs. The yarn was made from a material “that almost looks like saran wrap,” said Kate Mulleavy. “It’s so soft,” added Laura. “No one believes it will be, and that’s what’s so cool about it. It’s very shiny.” They used the same fabric to create little skirt suits worn with matching cropped tops; one in shades of green, and another in orange and pink.
Even tweed, which the sisters call “something you see in real life,” was injected with their explosion of fantasy. “These are all really beautiful couture tweets that have about eight or nine yarns woven into them and different layers of metallics,” Laura explained. A slip dress in a metallic fil coupe floral fabric with black lace details seemed to have an otherworldly glow in one look.
“We’re starting to see the red carpets open back up again,” said Laura. “I feel like there’s no version of us as designers at Rodarte if there never was a red carpet. We’re in Los Angeles, and it’s one of the thrilling aspects of designing eveningwear. If you design a gown, you want to see it out there, that’s the beauty of it.” But the Mulleavys know that the magic of their clothes is that they can impart that same feeling to anyone that wears them, no matter the place.
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