The fish, the crab, and the shrimp are excellent at Seafood Kingz 2, on City Island, but what really sets it apart are what its owner calls “the soulful trimmings.”
When a friend heard, recently, that I was planning a trip to City Island, which is connected to the Pelham Bay section of the Bronx by a short bridge, he asked, “Are you going to Tony’s or to Johnny’s?” At the southern tip of City Island Avenue—the main thoroughfare, which runs the length of the narrow landmass, about a mile and a half—you’ll find two mid-century-era seafood restaurants, Johnny’s Reef and Tony’s Pier.
With Seafood Kingz 2, Darryl Lelie, one of its co-owners and a Bronx native, fulfills a longtime dream of opening a restaurant on City Island. Johnny’s and Tony’s are undoubtedly worth a visit, but a lot has changed on City Island. I had a different destination in mind: Seafood Kingz 2, which opened in February. As the name implies, it’s a second location; the first is in St. Albans, Queens, and was opened in the fall of 2019 by the Lelie family, the patriarch of which, Darryl, is a veteran chef of acute-care-hospital kitchens, and a native of the Bronx.
Blink and you might miss Seafood Kingz 2. It’s one of the first storefronts on the City Island side of the bridge, across the street from the water; the restaurants that sit directly on the water are more likely to catch your eye. Inside, though, notable things are happening. The island has been home to a handful of Black-owned businesses, but the Lelies are fairly certain that theirs is the first Black-owned soul-food seafood restaurant there.
What truly sets the restaurant apart on the island are what Derell calls “the soulful trimmings.
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