Daily News | Seek out these fragrant lamb shanks and kebabs at Afghan grill in Rittenhouse
There’s a lamb shank I’ve been craving over the past few months as the temperatures began to plummet. It’s deeply savory from a patient five-hour braise steeped with cumin, dill, and garlic, and yields tender morsels with every gentle tug of the fork. The meaty girth of the last one I devoured at Villekebabs and Platters was impressively hidden beneath a mountain of cardamom-scented brown basmati laced with sweet carrots and juicy raisins.
It’s not a bad metaphor for Villekebabs itself, an Afghan grill house near Rittenhouse Square that’s so low key and overlooked, it might as well be hidden in plain sight. The sleekly modern wooden entrance that’s a holdover from Giwa, the Korean restaurant previously there, might still throw off some
people. But a host of other unlucky factors have likely also stemmed the crowds that otherwise might be flowing to the first Afghan kitchen to settle in Center City West since the much-belovedAfter 15 years of managing a Popeye’s in Teaneck, N.J., Nangialy “John” Shah and his wife, chef Marina Shah, searched New Jersey and Pennsylvania for a place to showcase the flavors of their native Afghanistan.
I’m thrilled that the Shahs have nonetheless survived, because Villekebabs serves a number of dishes I find myself thinking about as I hungrily stroll the streets nearby. Among them: the pyramid-shaped munto stuffed with cuminy beef over minted yogurt topped with yellow pea dahl. A golden and earthy lentil soup that sparkles with the heat of red pepper. I’m also a fan of the mixed kebab platter, because I can never choose.
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