The vitamin A derivative that’s so clever it treats acne and the signs of old age has its share of critics as well as devout followers, including Nicole Kidman.
. New EU regulations which come into force at the end of this year will restrict cosmetic retinoids over 0.3 per cent.
Whereas retinoic acid works directly on the skin cells, retinol and its cousins retinaldehyde, hydroxypinacolone retinoate and retinyl esters need to be metabolised and converted into retinoic acid within the skin. The number of conversions it takes to get there determines its efficacy and potency. But the amount of retinoid in your skin cream is just one factor, and can be misleading . Dr Stefanie Williams, a specialist in adult acne, suggests not obsessing over percentages. Rather, she recommends concentrating on the formulation as a whole, making sure it contains hydrating properties and protective antioxidants while ensuring it’s free from silicones that make the formulation feel silky smooth, but as a side effect can clog pores and cause inflammation.
These days, however, the uglies have been mitigated by better formulations that encapsulate retinoids in lipid structures that are bioavailable. As vitamin A is an oil-soluble vitamin, encasing it in a microscopic lipid capsule not only makes it more stable, it facilitates a controlled release mechanism that penetrates deeply and slowly, thereby maximising the effectiveness of the retinoid while minimising the risk of irritation.
In fact, studies show that retinoids improve collagen production, leading to thicker, firmer skin in the long term, and can be a smart skincare addition for women in the menopause transition when collagen depletes rapidly in the first five years.
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