The classic Irish bar, whose hallmarks evoke the qualities of an earlier era, has been in steady decline – but recently its future has started to look a little brighter
J O’Connell’s is in the heartland of Tara, the kingdom of high Irish royalty, in the shadow of a ruined medieval church tower at the top of Skryne Hill. Yet it took ato bring this 183-year-old family business to prominence, in 2004. Despite all that notoriety, J O’Connell’s has retained links to its roots, which have been lovingly curated by each generation of proprietor, right up to present owner Rachael O’Connell.
Hallmarks from the past are everywhere: the vintage beer taps, the warm glow from a cast-iron fireplace, an antiquated public phone, pale Victorian panelling and the ticking of an old oak wall clock that measures the passing of each well-spent moment, just as it did a century ago.
Nancy’s location by a sandstone bridge in the centre of the village is a natural meeting point. It’s a charming whitewashed two-storey building that is almost 200 years old, and today it’s a gathering place for musicians. Its low-panelled ceiling, rustic furnishings, chalky plaster and crammed bar counter give that unique country pub essence. Seafood straight from the Atlantic fishing trawlers at nearby Killybegs is a specialty – try the oysters, seafood linguine or chowder.
While the building dates from 1780, the front, with its intricate fanlight, arrived in 1890 and the interior, designed in the years that followed, has a restrained Edwardian elegance. The decor has shades of claret, ruby and walnut, with moody paintings and a hefty bar counter which patrons once had to go under to reach the toilets. There’s a narrow teak staircase, mirrors, wooden panels, a low beamed ceiling and an alley with outside tables.
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