Tender, silky, and worth the wait.
If there's one thing I miss most about New York , it's the cold, snowy winters. Not just because I love the cold and I love snow days , but more because those cold, frosty days make meaty, slow-cooked, rib-sticking winter dishes all the more delicious. And there's no dish meatier, more rib-sticking, or more satisfying to make than a big pot of.
A few hours later, it would have reduced to a velvety-smooth sauce, so rich and hearty that only the fattest swaths of fresh pappardelle or tagliatelle could stand up to it. Six full packets of gelatin, bloomed in thin store-bought chicken stock, brought enough body to the mix that, texture-wise, it was an improvement over even a veal stock–fortified version, while the ground beef improved the flavor. Pancetta, an ingredient common in many ragù recipes out there, also improved the sauce.
In the original No. 9 Park recipe, the meat is cooked in a separate pan from the vegetables before both are combined. This kind of compartmentalized cooking is pretty common in the restaurant kitchen, as cooking like with like—meat with meat and veg with veg—gives you a bit more immediate control over exactly how much those ingredients are cooked, particularly when you're working in large batches.
Either way, one thing is undeniable: Liver adds flavor and depth to the finished sauce, and does so in a way that sits in the background. Nobody who tastes the sauce would ever suspect that there are livers in it—unless they happen to bite into a chunk of one, that is.
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