Staying True to the Saint Laurent Spirit

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Staying True to the Saint Laurent Spirit
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Read CathyHoryn's dispatch from ParisFashionWeek: 'It was an odd sensation to walk up the steps to the Saint Laurent company’s monolithic tent, a black structure four or five stories high near the Trocadero, and enter a time from more than 20 years ago'

Photo-Illustration: by The Cut; Photos: Getty Images, Courtesy of Dior, Courtesy of Saint LaurentPhoto-Illustration: by The Cut; Photos: Getty Images, Courtesy of Dior, Courtesy of Saint Laurent

For many years, Yves Saint Laurent showed his couture collections in the Grand Ballroom of the Intercontinental Hotel. It was a tradition: the rather short runway and a mass of flowers on the backdrop framing the models as they emerged from the dressing area and began their haute walk. And in his later years, when he had less to say perhaps, Saint Laurent opened with the sharp-shouldered suit that was recognizable across the world.

On Tuesday night, Anthony Vaccarello reprised the scene. It was an odd sensation to walk up the steps to the Saint Laurent company’s monolithic tent, a black structure four or five stories high near the Trocadero, and enter a time from more than 20 years ago. Of course, Vaccarello’s runway was much longer; that’s just a contemporary necessity. And the shoulders of his jackets were wider, the pussy bows almost feral.

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