The 102-year-old Hawaiian restaurant where pork chops are king.
Going out to dinner with Danny and Anna Akaka is like arriving with the band. Our regular spot is in the middle of the room, cooled by old-fashioned ceiling fans and a salty breeze blowing off the ocean through open windows. But they know everyone, so it always takes a while to say hello at other tables before we actually sit down. This time, Danny kept popping up each whenever someone else paused at our table for a chat. Laughter leaked from the kitchen.
Posted on a black felt message board, the menu at Manago rarely varies. The papaya or mango at breakfast often comes out of someone’s yard. Most of the fish is caught right offshore. On lucky days, that could mean mahi mahi, ahi, ono, or opakapaka. Sides depend on whatever the ladies are cooking in the kitchen. Our waitress delivered the daily selection: pork tofu, stir fried mung beans, and ogo namasu—a vinegary salad of sautéed seaweed, raw onion, and tomato sprinkled with sesame.
Nearby tables were pushed together to accommodate a party. Lots of balloons, loud chatter, presents on the table, babies passed from lap to lap. The entire dining room sang the birthday song when a sheet cake came out, and one of the family members brought over slices for us to share. Everyone lingered, crumbs scattered on the yellow Formica tabletops.
By the time we finished, the moon was rising above Mauna Loa. We walked out past reception, where a dish of gardenias scented the night air. Danny and Anna said farewell to me on the street by performing honi, touching foreheads and sharing breath, or ha . We all had fishy breath, but it’s an honor. I’ll miss my friends. Until we meet again.
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