I’m paying homage to remarkable sushi, ethereal paneer, and three kinds of pizza – but there’s one thing all these diverse dishes have in common.
Mussels are not the dish that typically defines a sushi spot. But when a restaurant is focused on local and sustainable seafood, the eco-friendly mollusc can become a star. Chef Jeffrey Miller makes this incredible shellfish, packing sweet-salty richness in what looks like ordinary mussels, first by steaming them in sake with an aromatic mix of ginger, garlic and lemongrass. The mussels then get a second bath in a sake-butter sauce that further flavours and enriches them.
The result is a dish that ricochets around, from tangy to pungent to creamy to crunchy. All the better if you like fennel, too.Chef Nozomu Abe is famed for ageing fish, which concentrates the taste and makes it more tender. Among the seafood that benefits from the treatment is striped marlin, or makajiki, a popular sushi order in Japan, though less so in the US. At Noz, it’s cut from the upper part of the belly that’s been aged for 10 days, then marinated in a mirin-soy mix.
Set in a small mall in a West Miami suburb, Caracas Bakery specialises in sensational Venezuelan pastries. Manuel Brazon used to work with Miami’s resident dough expert, Zak Stern , from whom he learnt the fine art of lamination, which he employs in his pastelito de queso. The delightful square stuffed with three cheeses – mozzarella, ricotta, and fresh white paisa cheese – is light flakiness incarnate, enclosing the creamy, melty, luscious filling.
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